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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So sadly today I saw my chicken pass handful of round worms(my guess from google pictures). Im sad to say deworming never came to mind when rescuing the chickens. Feel awful if its been going on until i saw this. I did run down and got wrm clear drops feed store suggested to put in their water will do that until things clear up. My main question is Should I be deworming the chickens regularly? Like should i do it every 3 months or so
 

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I think @dawg does his monthly. I didn't worm unless I saw it needed to be done which was rarely over the years.

His recommendation is usually valbazen but you'll need to talk to him about how much since my brain doesn't remember.

Don't feel bad. It's why after so many years of keeping them everyone of us continues to learn something new about them.
 

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I think @dawg does his monthly. I didn't worm unless I saw it needed to be done which was rarely over the years.

His recommendation is usually valbazen but you'll need to talk to him about how much since my brain doesn't remember.

Don't feel bad. It's why after so many years of keeping them everyone of us continues to learn something new about them.
This year seems to be a little worse, mites too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
When reading on valbazen it sounds way better and easier to administer to the chickens. Thankyou so much Im going to try that next time. I dont know if i can switch to it soon after using the water dropps. May I ask when doing de worming do we not eat the eggs until treatment is finished.
 

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I don't de-worm unless I see worm overload. Lots of people do it twice a year, though, or more if they see a problem. It's up to you.

Here is a link to an article detailing a bunch of different de-wormers and their withdrawal times (if any).

 

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Dont go by the information provided in that link, there's some misinformation in it.

I recommend Valbazen as Robin stated. Dose each bird 1/2ml orally using a syringe without a needle, then repeat again in 10 days. Mixing wormers in water isnt very effective. You dont know if a bird drank enough of the mixture to be effective, or if a bird drank it at all, and sick birds wont drink at all.

Valbazen (Albendazole) is a Benzimidazole. Benzimidazoles are poorly absorbed and mostly excreted. We eat the eggs after using Valbazen or Safeguard (Fenbendazole). I'm still here typing after all these years.
However, if you suspect that you or a family member might have a reaction to the minute residue in the eggs, by all means toss the eggs in the garbage for 14 days after the last dosing.

Here's how you worm all your birds:
Go out to the coop with your flashlight early in the morning while it's still dark. It'll be easy to snatch a bird off the roost and worm it. Have your syringe preloaded 1/2ml Valbazen. If you have a heavy bird, dose 3/4ml.
Snatch a bird off the roost and cradle her in your forearm. Use your finger and thumb to pull straight down on her wattles and her mouth will open.
Use your free hand to grab the preloaded syringe and quickly squirt the liquid in the hens mouth. IMMEDIATELY let go of the hens wattles so she can swallow the liquid on her own. If you dont immediately let go of the wattles, she could aspirate and then there would be big problems.
Then release her. Draw up another 1/2ml Valbazen, snatch another bird off the roost and repeat this procedure until they are all wormed.

I recommend that you practice this procedure, a 'dry run' so to speak to make it easier for you. Also, you can have someone hold the hen for you if you wish, but you would still have to pull the wattles straight down in order to dose her.
The key is always letting go of the wattles after dosing orally. Also, sometimes a hen will shake her head while grabbing the wattles, hang on and she will tire out, then you can administer it orally.

Keep in mind the reason why you want to worm birds early in the morning: Not only is it easier, your birds have not eaten since the evening before and will have empty guts. Your birds will be starving, so will the worms and they will be at their weakest. This will make the wormer more effective eliminating the worms.
In addition, Valbazen is a very safe wormer. It slowly kills worms over several days, preventing toxic dead worm overload.

Then wait 2 hours after worming before feeding your birds. After two hours, give your birds a little feed at a time, gradually increasing rations back to normal feeding throughout the day.
Remember, your birds will be starving. They will gorge feed possibly causing impacted crop or gizzard.

Then repeat worming again in 10-14 days to kill worms hatched from eggs missed during the initial worming. Wormers have no effect on worm eggs.

Your soil will be contaminated with worm eggs. Since birds constantly peck the soil, they pick up the eggs and swallow them, starting the worms lifecycle all over again. This is called the "Direct Lifecycle."
This is why I worm birds monthly, to end the worms lifecycle. Also penned birds are more susceptible for worm infections. This is why I have sand in my pens and coops. Sand keeps everything dry and deters insects.

Anyone who says a chicken can handle a small wormload doesnt know what they are talking about.
What's a small wormload? ONE female large roundworm lays thousands of eggs onto the soil each day to be picked up by the chickens. There is no immunity to worms. That's why we worms dogs and cats monthly, same for chickens.

What damage has been done internally by the time you see a worm when it's excreted? There are only two reasons why a worm is excreted: There isnt anymore room in the guts and was excreted. Or, it died of old age. Worms cannot survive outside the host. Intestinal wall damage has occurred preventing proper absorption of nutrients. They literally suck the life out of a bird.
Worms weaken birds by starvation, which makes birds susceptible to all kinds of diseases.

Capillary worms in particular are killers just by their sheer numbers.
Tapeworms are a different ball game and require praziquantel to kill them.
Valbazen takes care of all worms except tapeworms, same with Safeguard. However, Safeguard requires higher dosage and 5 days straight dosing each bird.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I will deffinatly switch over to the de wrm u suggested. It feels better doing that method since you know the hens got a correct dosage. Only thing that conserns me is when reading your comment n even online. Stated they loose weight n hardly eat. My chickens have no problem eating and drinking. I know i saw her drink some of the medicated water. But conserns me if differebt worm. Dont know if okay ill upload icky picture of the worms i saw. But i assume 2 hens were overeating to compinsate all nutrients veing eaten from worms why she looks over weight nut could be her breed
Branch Twig Wood Grass Groundcover
 

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Worm her with Valbazen and the rest of your birds as well. If one has them, chances are that the others have worms as well.
After you worm them, give them plain boiled white rice (cooled down) mixed with buttermilk. The rice will settle their innards and buttermilk will coat their innards and is a much better probiotic than yogurt. Yogurt tends to run out the rear end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Do you buy the valbazan online if not at my stores here? They are all closed itd 6:49 here. Will deffinatly go tomorrow and get buttermilk do the rice steps also. I think i found the medication online
 

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Here's where you can get Valbazen 500ml bottle:
 

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Deworming:
.
And many You Tubes!
 

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Deworming:
.
And many You Tubes!
I can assure you that natural products will not prevent nor treat worms, been that route a very very long time ago. New chicken owners always go the natural route and have to learn the hard way, I was no exception. DE is a waste of money. It's best known for draining your wallet or purse. But it's your money to spend.
I agree that feces should be tested at a vets office for worms eggs prior to worming. I dont do that because I know through experience that chickens are going to get worms just like other animals. Besides, a bottle of Valbazen or a bottle of Safeguard liquid goat wormer is cheaper than a visit to a vets office.
Flubenvet/Flubendazole is not available in the United States. It's a good wormer only available in Great Britain and in some other countries. It is a Benzimidazole as are Safeguard (fenbendazole) and Valbazen (albendazole.)
 

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I agree with dawg 100% with everything he just said.

Those that say DE worked, didn't have a problem to start with. I have looked and looked over the years for scientific documentation about DE and never found one. It's all company hype.
 
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